Day 13: Mountains and Valleys

Elgoibar to Miranda de Ebro // Miles 69 // Feet 4,961

Today was a tough day. Nearly 5,000 feet of climbing. James, the Englishman who is the trip organizer and the strongest rider in our group, set out alone. The rest of us stuck together for almost 35 miles. There was a lot of climbing in the first 20 miles and by the time we got to the first sag stop I was starving. Little did I know that the fun was just beginning. We had a climb of more than five miles over a mountain pass, with the grade jumping from 8% to 15% in a couple spots. It was hard. We noticed a couple of cycling team cars passing us on the way up and several motorcycle police were on the road. When we reached the summit, we talked (the best we could since no one among us knows Spanish and the man we were talking to did not speak English) to a man leaning on a road bike. We learned a cycling race for under 23 year olds and under was coming through in about 15 minutes. Cars of parents and support vehicles gathered in the parking lot near us to watch and cheer as the leaders and then the peloton came by. It was fun, and humbling to watch them race up the mountain knowing how we had struggled to get up that climb just minutes before.

After descending the mountain, we rode through the rolling, rural countryside, passing through small farming villages. The roads are narrow and when we ride through the old village streets we are practically within reach of the front doors of the homes. I was alone at some points and thought I had to have taken a wrong turn because it was so narrow. At about mile 47 we came into a village that was having a summer festival. The streets were blocked and people filled the streets. We walked our bikes through the maze of festival goers, then remounted for the final 21 miles. The next two sets of climbs began. The first on a two lane highway, snaking its way up the mountain. The road folded around the mountain like a ribbon. After reaching the top and half way down the descent, my Garmin instructed me to turn left off the descent and I began another climb, this time on a tiny country road. I rode alone climbing for miles, inching my way up the mountain, until I finally reached the top and started the next descent. I rode it down for miles, breaking when I exceeded 30 mph, through the picturesque countryside. The light on the golden wheat and yellow fields of sunflowers fields was exquisite.

I am so enjoying learning about the culture of each country and region that we are passing through. I am fascinated that the countries are as close as states in the US, but each has its culture, language and traditions. The Spanish culture is presenting a challenge for us. Most businesses close between noon and 2:00 or later. And many are closed for the month of August for holiday. Dinner is at 8:30 and most families don’t eat until 10:00 p.m. or later. After riding all day we typically arrive at the hotel around 3:00, when most things are closed, so we cannot get food. We ride all day on breakfast and little more, maybe a cereal or granola bar. The result is that we finish at 3:00 but do not eat dinner until 8:00 or later am starved by then. Tonight rather than wait for dinner we bought food in the hotel “cafeteria” that was open. For dinner I had two beers, a salami sandwich, and a bag of chips. Dinner of champions after riding 68 miles and climbing over 5,000 feet. We are about 162 miles north and slightly east of Madrid. We will be riding south west, gradually angling toward Portugal but won’t enter that country for another week. The forecast for tomorrow is promising, high 60’s and sunshine. We have a short day of only 50 miles, but the first 30 Miles is a long, gradual climb.