Day 26: Welcome to McPherson

Great Bend to McPherson, KS
Miles:  65  Climb:  510
Total Miles:  1,874

Today we continued the ride across Kansas, the long windy ride across Kansas.  The first 27 miles of the morning were ideal.  Overcast skies, smooth surface, no wind. The fields of corn and wheat were beautiful in the morning light.  I joined a group of fast riders, Hans from the Netherlands, James and Wayne from Great Britian, and Tony from New Hampshire.  As we left the first SAG stop, someone flipped the switch and turned on the headwind.  Again.  We had strong headwind from the east the last 38 miles, making it a tiring ride.  We rode in a pace line to give each other drafts from the strong winds, and even though it nearly killed me, I made sure that I pulled at the same pace as the guys.  I will pay for it tomorrow.

When we came into McPherson, the digital bank sign at the main intersection of town had a welcome message to the America By Bike Tour and they were scrolling pictures of us.  It was great.  We stopped at a little cafe for lunch and it was as if we were celebrities.  The waitress said they'd been waiting for us.  It was a blast and truly boosted our spirits.  We got to the hotel before 1:00, in time to do laundry and take advantage of the warm weather to dry clothes outside rather than over the air conditioner.  Several of us used the luggage racks as clothes lines to dry our clothes.

Every evening we have "Route Rap" which is when the ABB staff goes over the next day's route, giving details about the route, places of interest, and safety pointers.  Tomorrow's ride is to the north,  and then we will go east to Missouri.  We get into St. Joesph, Missouri on July 3, and tonight they informed us that we will be part of a parade in the town.  The ABB staff asked that we all wear the ABB Jersey that day.  The ABB Jersey is red, white and blue with Stars and Stripes on the outline of the US.  I think it is really funny that we're asking the Brits on this tour to wear the Stars and Stripes to celebrate the US independence.  They seemed to be fine with the request.  I guess by now there are no hard feelings, but we did have a lot of jokes about it.

Forecast for tomorrow:  Wind from the north.  I kid you not.  I've given up on the hope for prevailing winds from the west.

Day 25: In the Middle

Dodge City to Great Bend, KS
Miles:  85  Climb:  590
Total Miles:  1,809

We left the hotel early, earlier than usual this morning due to the threat of thunderstorms in the afternoon.  Our route for the past few days has been southeast.  Today we headed northeast and were blessed with with a strong tail wind, the first good tail wind we've had since Day 6.  Spirits were buoyed and we rode fast, talking about how we deserved this wind to our backs after repeated days of headwind.  The first SAG stop was at mile 36, at a park which claims to be in the middle of the US, equidistance between San Francisco and New York.  There was a small museum and a recreated sod house.  I spent quite a bit of time there, so the rest of my group headed on without me.

After the SAG stop I rode the rest of the day alone, and I really enjoyed it.  I trained alone riding the country roads around Ann Arbor, so today was like a training day.  I had a lot of time to do some good thinking.  I did a lot of good thinking.  My pace was steady.  I was relaxed in the saddle.  I was in a zone. There is nothing more satisfying than to find your "zone" in an endurance sport.

The scenery was very flat and I could see the huge grain elevators ahead from miles away.  I rode from elevator to elevator thinking about my childhood, my parents and my family.  The villages I rode through (Wright, Spearville, Offerle, Kinsley, Garfield) exist only because of the grain elevators that are there.  I wondered as I rode through those tiny towns what impression the Europeans in our group were getting from this trip across America.  They certainly are not seeing the typical tourist spots in the US.  They are seeing places and lifestyles that many Americans have not seen.

Because of the early start and the steady pace, I got to the hotel early.  I washed out my kit in the sink, as I normally do, but today, instead of hanging my clothes over the air conditioner to dry I took advantage of a little tree outside my hotel window.  It made a good clothesline and I thought it was a fitting end to the day.

The thunderstorm never materialized, but the forecast is for rain in the morning. Temperatures are more moderate, in the high eighties.  We will delay our start if it is storming because tomorrow is a short day, just 65 miles.

Day 24: Dodge City

June 28, 2016
Garden City to Dodge City, KS
Miles:  51  Climb:  650
Total Miles:  1,724

Today was supposed to be a nice recovery ride after the back to back centuries.  But we again had strong headwind from the East, fifteen mph with gusts up to 25 mph.  The recovery ride was tough and I am really tired.  Five of us rode in a pace line, which made the ride bearable.  I was pulling when four other riders jumped onto our line, so I pulled eight riders against the wind.  My knees hurt when I finished.  First physical discomfort I've had since we started.

Dodge City is true cowboy country.  Since it was a short day I made a visit to the Boot Hill Museum and Cemetery.  It is a decent little museum with lots of artifacts from the old west.  One fun fact I learned is that Marshal Dillon was a fictitious character, but Wyatt Earp and Bat Masterson were real.  There was a section of the museum devoted to the plains Indians.  It was very sobering to read about that part of our history in the expansion of the west.

This is the trip of a lifetime but I'd be lying if I said I'm not getting a little eager to get to the finish.  I'm tired of headwind and I'm tired of the food.  I swear once this is over I won't eat another peanut butter and jelly sandwich, the fare we have twice a day at SAG stops, as long as I live.

Tomorrow we get the hell out of Dodge.  We have an 85 mile day, with some big mileage days to follow before we get to the rest day in Missouri.  Forecast is for wind from the south, so we're hoping crosswind instead of headwind. There also is some chance of storms, which will be an interesting challenge if we are halfway  between Dodge City and Great Bend.  There is nothing but wide open spaces in Kansas.

Day 23: We are in Kansas!

June 27, 2016
Lamar, CO to Garden City, KS
Miles:  103  Climb:  1,105
Total Miles:  1,671

We left this morning at 6:00 a.m.  Killer day.  It was really hard.  125 miles yesterday followed by 103 today with headwind and heat. Killer. The wind was strong, it was hot, and my legs were fatigued from yesterday.   Eight of us started in a pace line.  I instructed some less experienced riders on how to move from front to back, explaining that no one (meaning me) should ride at the back the entire time.  I wanted to take my turn at pulling and then move through the line, so I organized a true pace line for today.  For the first 50 miles our pace was strong, but then I bonked.  I was totally drained.  Our pace line broke into small groups and the groups rode at different paces. From that point on it took all I had to finish.  Yesterday I averaged 16 mph for 125 miles.  Today I averaged 14.88 mph for 103 miles. Several riders struggled and some didn't get to the hotel until after 5:00, so for them it was a really long day in the saddle.

We are now in Kansas and the central time zone!  Even though the day was hard, riders are buoyed by the progress we are making. Riders today complained about how flat and boring Kansas is, especially following the great ride and experience in Colorado.  I think Kansas has its own beauty. The corn, wheat and alfalfa fields are bigger than any I've ever seen and there are no fences.  Farmers were cutting wheat today.  I grew up on a farm in Bengal, Indiana, so I think I had an appreciation that the other riders didn't for what those big fields represent:  family heritage, investment, risk, a changing industry, and hard work.

My friend, Liz, from the UK said today that she can sum up this ride in one word: BIG. The scenery is big, the distances are big, and the food portions are big. I agree. Big does describe this trip, the BIG  Cross Country Challenge.

Tomorrow we have a short day, 52 miles, which is a welcome break.  But we lose an hour of sleep since we entered the central time zone today.  Forecast is for continued warm weather, winds from the east (again) and the possibility of a storm tomorrow afternoon.  We plan to be off the road by the time it rolls in.

Day 22: Double Metric Century

June 26, 2016
Pueblo to Lamar, CO
Miles:  125  Climb:  1,100
Total Miles:  1,567

We continued our trek through Colorado to Kansas on US 50, the Santa Fe Trail. The Santa Fe Trail was established in 1821 after Mexico had won independence from Spain.  The trail was an important trade and emigration route in our history.  It has been very thought provoking to ride these roads that played such an important role in the development of the country.

We had an early departure in order to beat the heat.  There was, again, a headwind from the southeast.  In the three weeks we've been riding, I believe we've had a westerly wind one day. So much for thinking that riding west to east we'd have the prevailing winds at our backs.

The route today was 120 miles.  Before leaving the hotel, the Tour Director said that if anyone wanted to add on five additional miles, a certificate would be awarded for completing a double metric century.  A metric century is 62.5 miles, so by completing 125 miles, a rider could achieve a double metric century.

For the first 75 miles I threw caution to the wind and rode with the fast group.  I decided that it would be better to ride fast with them as long as I could hold on in order to get the miles behind me and to take advantage of the draft.  Instead of taking the place at the back where I usually ride, I rode behind Liz, who drafts her husband, John.  John pulls.  Riding in the middle of the pace line is the best place to ride, much better than the back.  There is more turbulence at the back and the rubber band or yo-yo effect forces the last person to sprint to catch up from the stopping and starting at lights and other slowdowns.  On other days, sprinting to catch up quickly tired me physically and mentally, which is when I would choose to drop and ride alone.  Today, I rode in the middle.  We averaged 19 mph for the first 75 miles.  At the SAG stop, John decided he wanted to finish the last 45 miles at a faster speed, so he left without us.  Liz and I completed the day together, taking turns pulling for each other against the wind.  Our pace for the last 45 miles was much slower because we were both tired from the fast pace and the headwind had picked up.

Even though I was tired when I neared the hotel, I decided to add on the extra five miles to achieve double metric century status.  I rode past the hotel, continuing into the headwind and turned around when my Garmin read 123 miles.  Just two miles back to the hotel and I'd earn the certificate.  When I made the turn, my Garmin displayed a low battery warning.  I panicked, concerned that if the Garmin died, I'd have no proof.  I rode the last two miles as hard as I could with the wind to my back. I needed to finish before I lost power both in my legs and in my Garmin.  I pulled into the hotel driveway and my Garmin read exactly 125 miles.  I'm feeling pretty happy tonight.

The scenery today was not what I expected.  I thought it would be prairie and big ranches.  Instead, it was rural with big farms.  Huge fields of corn, wheat and alfalfa lined both sides of the US 50.  It had a rural beauty, except for the horrible feedlots we passed.  I think those should be banned.

Tomorrow is another century day.  We ride 107 miles to Garden City, Kansas.  Forecast is for the high nineties and wind out of the southeast, AGAIN.

Day 21: Our Second Rest Day

June 25, 2016
Pueblo, CO
Miles:  0  Climb:
Total Miles 1,447

On this trip I can't remember what day it is, but I know it when it is a rest day.

We normally are up at 5:00.  Today, I didn't set the alarm.  After breakfast I read the paper and did a crossword puzzle, my first of the trip, which is a surprise because I am a crossword puzzle addict. After the puzzle, I cleaned my bike at the bike wash station that the staff set up for us and I had the mechanic adjust my derailleur because my chain was slipping and clunking between gears yesterday. Had lunch.  Napped.  Talked with my family on the phone.  Napped some more.  Then joined three other riders for a cab ride downtown to a nice restaurant.  What a treat.  We normally eat at chains close to the hotel.  This was a really great meal with a good glass of wine in a small restaurant in the historic district.  I highly recommend dc's on B Street if you are ever in Pueblo, Colorado.  It is next to Neon Alley, which is an alley with restaurants with outdoor seating and old neon signs decorating the buildings.  Very nice.

While the riders have a rest day the ABB staff are working, still.  There are four staff supporting this ride.  They drive two vans, one of which pulls a trailer.  The trailer carries the luggage.  One of the vans is outfitted for the mechanic and the vans carry the SAG stop food and supplies.  The four staff have done an amazing job of supporting 20 riders of varying skills and abilities.

For the four staff with us on this trip, this is a summer job.  Michelle is the tour director.  She is on the faculty at UM-Flint.  This is the seventh trip she has made across country, one as a rider and six as support.  She is the person in charge and everyday is making decisions about how to support riders that get as much as 30 miles apart on the route.  Gene is the mechanic.  He is a retired teacher.  Jane is his wife.  She is a retired postal worker.  They now live in Florida and work for ABB in the summer. This is their fifth trip across the US, once as riders and four times as support.  In September they are doing an unsupported ride across the US for their vacation.  They are doing the Adventure Cycle southern tier route from San Diego to St. Augustine, Florida.  That means they will make two cross country trips this year, one as support staff for ABB and the other for fun for their vacation.  Carole is the fourth support person.  She did this ride in 2009 and this is her first year as support staff. The support staff all are cyclists so they take turns driving the SAG vans and riding.  They work long days supporting the riders, and  on the rest days, they work.  They wash the vans, reorganize the equipment, buy more supplies, and check out the routes ahead for road construction or other potential interruptions.  Their one priority is to get all riders to New Hampshire safely.

We start the next leg of the route tomorrow, through the plains and into the Midwest.  We have back to back century days to get us into Kansas, another state down.  Tomorrow is a 120 mile day, which will be the longest ride I've ever done.  Next rest day is in nine days, and the four of us who had the nice dinner tonight are already scouting out the restaurants in St. Joseph, Missouri.

Day 20: Two Blowouts and a Flat

June 24, 2016
Salida to Pueblo, CO
Miles:  95  Climb:  2500
Total Miles:  1,447

Our day started earlier than usual because of the long ride as we headed to lower elevation.  We rode US Route 50 along the Arkansas River between two mountain ranges through some of the most beautiful scenery we have seen yet.  The Arkansas River running along the base of the mountain range was beautiful.  The area is popular for white water rafting and there were many rafts on the rapids as we rode by.  The temperature was about 65 degrees and the road surface was excellent.  It was a beautiful morning and the pace was brisk.

The first 43 miles was a steady downhill. At one point on the descent I got down on the drops, stood on the pedals, and slid my butt back on the saddle, the classic descent position.  When I moved back on my saddle, the guy behind yelled to me that I had a blow out.  The back of my shorts had a huge rip.  There was a gapping hole.  I told him it was because I had developed so much muscle in my thighs that my shorts couldn't contain the strength.  Now I am down one pair of biking shorts unless I go shopping on the rest day, which I really don't want to do.

At mile 43 we had a five mile climb, and then the conditions changed rapidly.  As we dropped in elevation and made our way out of the mountains, the temperature increased, the traffic increased, and the road conditions deteriorated.  We stopped at the second SAG stop at mile 63 and it was 103 degrees.

We were headed for the hotel, with 32 miles to go, when Liz had a flat.  We stopped to change it, and Tony noticed that he had a huge gash in his tire and his tube was protruding.  Blowout number 2 for the day.  So we had two bikes upside down, working on tires in 103 degrees.  Tony had nothing to boot his tire, so I gave him my Bonk Breaker package.  He used it as a boot, inflated his tire to only 70 lbs (100 psi or more is what we have been riding) and we headed toward town.  The Bonk Breaker Boot held for the rest of the trip.

Tomorrow is a rest day, and I am glad for that.  I am tiring, and keeping up with my group is getting harder.  They are faster riders than I am and when we are on the descents and flats it is a lot of work for me to keep pace for 95 miles.  I find myself dropping frequently to ride a pace that is more comfortable for me for the distance.  I hate dropping, but I know that we  still have many miles ahead and I know that pacing is as important as speed.  The other reason for dropping back is that it gives me more time to think.  When I'm drafting and working hard to keep up, all my attention and effort goes to riding.  When I drop back I can enjoy the ride, take in the scenery, and let my mind go.

Two people are leaving the tour tomorrow. They signed up only for as far as Pueblo, CO.  Sunday, the day after our rest day, is the longest mileage day of the tour:  120 miles.  Riders are concerned about bad weather and boredom as we make our way across the plains of eastern Colorado and Kansas.  I am concerned about keeping up since we will not be climbing.  It is interesting that even after three weeks of riding long days and in some hard conditions, we continue to be anxious about what is ahead.

Day 19: Crossing the Rockies at 7mph

Gunnison to Salida, CO
Miles:  64  Climb:  4080
Total Miles:  1,340

Today was incredible.  It will be hard to top the events of today.

We are now riding on U.S. Route 50, which is much more enjoyable than riding the Interstate.  The first 30 miles we rode were the best ride of the trip yet, and will be hard to beat.  For 30 miles we rode along the base of a mountain range through a beautiful, green valley dotted with nice ranches and grazing cattle. Mountains on the left, a stream and pastures on the right.  No wind.  Sixty-eight degrees.  Sunny.  Smooth road surface and little traffic. It was idyllic.

The first SAG stop was at mile 31 at the Tomichi Creek Trading Post, a small general store in the middle of pretty much nowhere.  Then we immediately started a nine mile climb to Monarch Pass.  The grade was consistently at 6.5 - 7 %.  It was a long hard climb on Route 50 that curved back and forth up the mountain to the pass.  The mountains were beautiful and rugged.  The weather was perfect and the scent of the pine trees was fresh. The ride was hard.  I tried to maintain 7 - 8 mph and to control my breathing, relying again on Row, Row, Row your boat to keep a steady cadence.  By the time I reached the top I was breathing hard and my legs were weak. The faster riders gathered at the top and cheered as each following rider reached the pass.  It was a marvelous and emotional experience.

At the pass, which is at 11,000 feet, there was a small gondola, built in the 1960s, that went up the mountain another 1,000 feet.  A group of us took the gondola up to the top to take in the full view of the mountain ranges on each side of the continental divide.  Our summit achievement was rewarded by an 18 mile descent down the mountain into the town of Salida.  It was an incredible day.

It is hard to believe we are now over the Rocky Mountains and a third of the way through our trip.  We are in Salida, which is at 7,000 feet.  We ride 100 miles tomorrow to lower elevations and toward the plains, bringing different terrains, weather, and new challenges.  Thus far my body is holding up well and my bike is working well.  I hope my good fortune continues.

   

Day 18: Today was Amazing!

Montrose to Gunnison, CO (elev. 7681)
Miles:  66  Climb:  5,050
Total Miles:  1,288

Big climbing day with awesome descents.

We started earlier than usual to try to beat the wind and to give more time for the long climbs ahead.  There was strong headwind, again, when we left the hotel.  We started climbing immediately and the wind was 15 - 20 mph.  Tough going.  My legs were tired from the previous two days of wind and I started to worry about getting through the climbs.  The first climb was a 12 mile climb, straight into a headwind and steeper than climbs we'd done the past week.  We crawled, on the drops to be more aerodynamic, heads down.  The following descent made the climb fully worth it.  Even those of us not yet confident on mountain descents were able to let go and enjoy the ride. The wind on the other side of the pass was light, the road surface smooth, and the shoulder wide.

At the bottom we came upon a little store that advertised homemade pie, so we stopped for pie, even though it was only 8:00 a.m.  I opted for pecan, rationalizing that the pecans were a good source of protein and the crust carbohydrates.  I added a cup of coffee justifying that the caffeine from the coffee and the sugar from the pie filling were about the same that I'd have from a Bonk Breaker I was carrying in my jersey pocket.

After leaving the pie shop, we started climbing again. Nine and a half miles at a 6 - 8 % grade.   It was a long, hard climb, but the scenery was fantastic, the wind light, and the descent lasted for miles and miles.  It was an unbelievable, perfect combination of physical challenge followed by sheer fun.  I was laughing out loud as we rode down the mountain.

At the end of the descent we came upon road construction and the road was down to one lane.  The road crew held up the oncoming traffic as we started the next climb, 2 miles and rather steep.  There were about eight of us together at that point.  As we passed the stopped oncoming traffic on our way up the mountain, people rolled down their windows and cheered for us.  You would have expected them to be annoyed by the wait, but I guess in Colorado they but cheer for bikers on climbs.  It was truly awesome.

It is interesting that the body adapts to this long endurance, day after day effort.  The cumulative fatigue in my legs is growing, but every day I start with light spinning at the start to warm them up, and eventually, the strength returns.  I have a mounting general fatigue, and the past few days I've gotten so drowsy for a brief period during the ride that I had to fight the urge to pull over for a quick nap in the ditch.

We have a shorter day tomorrow with a very steep climb (9 miles and 10% grade) to get over Monarch pass, followed by an 18 mile descent.  Looks like it could be another amazing day.

Day 17: Wide Open Spaces

Fruita to Montrose, CO
Miles:  75   Climb: 3130
Total Miles:  1222

The ride today started like yesterday, strong headwind and temperatures climbing fast.  My legs felt heavy and I was worried that I had left it all on Interstate 70 yesterday.  We continued to ride through arid, dry canyons, but it was not as desolate as Utah.

The first and only SAG stop was at 38 miles.  The ABB team was concerned about the heat and keeping everyone in water, so they used one van for the SAG stop and and the other scouting the route to make sure everyone was okay.  Like yesterday, the pace to the SAG was unbearably slow due to the wind.  At the stop I had the standard PB&J and some fig newtons and tried to reenergize.

When we left the stop, miraculously, the wind had changed.  We were able to travel at our normal speeds, and it felt like we were flying.  Even though the last 37 miles were a steady but gradual uphill climb, we rode well.  When we got into town we stopped at a coffee shop to celebrate.

The Europeans are amazed by how big the West is, and I agree.  These definitely are wide open spaces.  After experiencing the West on a bicycle the past two weeks I better understand how living near mountains and wide canyons influences the psyche of people who grow up here.

Tomorrow we climb into the Rockies.  We will be in the San Juan range climbing for two days to Monarch Pass.  Forecast is for continued hot weather and headwinds.

Day 16: Colorado

Green River, UT to Fruita, CO
Miles:  90  Climb:  3,600 ft
Total Miles:  1,147

 Today's update from the America By Bicycle What Was I Thinking Cross Country Challenge.

Ninety miles on Interstate 70. Chip and Seal surface. Strong headwind.  An arid, desert canyon. 108 degrees. What the hell was I thinking when I signed up for this?

The forecast was for high temperatures, so we were on the road by 6:15.  The first SAG stop was at mile 25.  The second SAG stop was at mile 65.  After the first SAG stop my friends dropped me.  I decided it was better to conserve my energy and ride alone at a pace that I could maintain than push myself to keep with them and blow up before the end.  Feeling abandoned as I rode through Isolation Canyon (No joke. That is the name of it.), the temperatures rose and a strong headwind picked up.  By mile 50 I was totally exhausted, physically, mentally and emotionally, and I still had 40 miles to go.  My average speed at this point was about 10mph, which meant I had at least four more hours on the bike seat, and my ass hurt.  I stopped.  I got off the bike.  I stretched my legs and talked myself through what to do. Even at only 10 mph I could eventually reach the next SAG stop, refill my water bottles, get some food, and from there it was only 25 miles to the hotel.   I decided I was not going to quit, and I was not going to cry, but swearing was perfectly reasonable, which I did profusely.  When I got back on the bike and started peddling my Garmin read 108 degrees.

My friend Liz (yes, one of the group who dropped me) was at the SAG stop when I arrived.   So we rode the last 25 miles together, which included crossing the Colorado state line.  After a long climb, when we dropped over the crest the scenery was amazing, beautiful mountains and a lush, green valley. But I was too tired to stop for a photo.  My legs were weak, my water was low, and  I didn't want to interrupt a good descent.

Some people had to SAG today.  Dehydration was an issue and the heat was just too much.  We all are hoping for a better day tomorrow, but the forecast isn't promising. It looks we will have heat and headwinds again tomorrow.

Day 15: Thelma and Louise and Laura

Price to Green River, UT
Miles:  67  Climb:  1,300 ft
Total Miles 1,057

Today we rode 67 miles from Price to Green River on US Route 6.  Our first 1,000 miles is done! The ride was much easier than yesterday, in spite of the fact that the temperature hit 109 degrees while we were riding.  The scenery was brown, hazy and desolate from Wellington (just outside of Price) all the way to Green River.  Beautiful, striated rock towered over the canyon floor that looked like a desert.

Green River is in the area near Moab and the Canyon Lands.  It is very hot, dry, and desolate, and as I  rode along scenes from the movie "Thelma and Louise" were playing in my head.  I could see them driving the car off the rock formations that lined the highway.

The Outlaw Trail was in this area, covering more than 200 miles.  The canyons provided hideouts for many famous outlaws, including Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid and their gang.  They spent time in Green River and the surrounding canyons from the 1880s to the early 1900s before going to South America.

We had less wind today, but still enough to make the ride a challenge, given the heat.  Several days in a row we've ridden into an east southeast headwind.  Winds, flats and heat make a frustrating combination.  But my group had only one flat today and we kept a good pace in spite of the wind, which got us to the hotel early in the afternoon.  It was nice to have time to clean the bike and do some laundry before the long day ahead of us tomorrow.

Tomorrow we leave Utah and ride 90 miles to Fruita, Colorado.  Another state will be behind us!  Forecast is for temperatures in the 100s.

Day 14: Climbing DOWN a Mountain

Provo to Price, UT
Miles:  75   Climb:  3,930
Total Miles:  990

Legs were back today.  And it's a good thing.

In less than 10 miles from the hotel we got hit by a strong head wind.  At the junction of three mountains there was a wind farm, because (duh) there is a lot of wind. We rode at less than 8 mph. Just as we got away from the wind, we started a 20 mile climb.

The climb was long and gradual.  At the first (and only) SAG stop after 11 miles of uphill grinding, there were still nine miles of steeper climbing to reach Soldier Summit.  The ABB staff warned that the grade increased as we reached the summit and then the descent was long and challenging.  They warned repeatedly for us to be careful on the fast descent. So when we reached Soldier Summit (7447 ft) there was a small celebration because we knew the next 30 miles would be a coast to the finish.

I rode with Liz, my friend from England, on the climb.  Then at the Summit she joined her husband for the descent and I held back to ride the descent alone.  Bad decision.  As I started down the other side of the pass, I was hit by the strongest headwind yet.  I had to shift to low gear and pedal to move. Getting down the mountain was harder than getting up.  I had to get on my small chainring and push to make the descent.  And I had urged my only potential drafting partners for the day to go on without me.  So I rode it alone.  I climbed DOWN the mountain at a slower speed than I had climbed up the mountain. The wind was awful, the temperature was nearly 100 degrees, the truck traffic was heavy, and the shoulder was rough.

But, again, the scenery was fantastic.  On the climb up to the summit the mountains were green and beautiful.  We saw herds of sheep on the mountainside.  Then on the way down the mountains were sheer rock in amazing formations.  Between the ride and the scenery, this is a day I will always remember.

Tomorrow we ride 67 miles and don't have a lot of climbing.  Weather forecast is 103 degrees with wind out of the southeast.

Day 13: A Beautful Ride

Salt Lake City to Provo
Miles:  65   Climb. 1,850
Total Miles:  854

After days of riding on Interstate 80 with semi trucks going 75 miles per hour and debris strewn across the shoulder, today we rode 65 miles and all but about 3 miles was on bike paths.  We rode all the way from Salt Lake City  to Provo on beautifully maintained bike paths.  The bike paths link the communities that have grown between Salt Lake City and Provo.  We rode along well manicured subdivisions, farms, schools and businesses.  Beautiful mountains provided a backdrop the entire way.  We rode through Brigham Young University when we got to Provo.  It is a very nice campus and Provo is a pretty mountain town.

We normally have SAG stops about every 30 miles, so on a sixty mile day there is only one SAG stop.  The SAG stop today was near an In-N-Out Burger, which has become quite the attraction for our group of riders.  Rather than eating more peanut butter and jelly (which everyone is getting tired of) we went to In-N-Out for burgers and shakes before 11:00 a,m.  The amount of food we consume is unbelievable.

I was very tired today.  The residual fatigue from the hard Wednesday ride lingered in my legs, so I decided to make the day a recovery ride by using a lighter gear and faster cadence to work out the lactic acid and warm the muscles.  It was a beautiful ride, but I was so tired I was very glad when it was over.  I'm actually thinking a day off might not be a good thing during a long endurance event like this.

I am very impressed with the bike trails we've been on thus far in the western states.  It is evident that southeast Michigan is far behind other states in building bike trails for recreation, fitness, and transportation between communities.  I've  been giving some thought to what we might do to advance the status of bike trails and lanes in our state.

Tomorrow we continue our trek through Utah with a 75 mile day and a 9 mile climb as we head toward the Rocky Mountains.  I'm hoping for a good night's sleep and fresh legs when I wake up in the morning.

Day 12: Rest Day

Salt Lake City
Miles: 0  Climb: 0

And on the 12th day, they rested.

Rest day is a free day.   Riders are free to do whatever appeals to them.  Some of us went by van to a local bike shop to buy supplies. From there, Tony and I took the bus and light rail to the city center to see downtown Salt Lake City and Temple Square, the home of the Mormon Church.  It felt good to walk and stretch our quads after the hard day yesterday.

When we returned to the hotel I did laundry and re-packed my bag. I have been washing my bike shorts and jerseys in the sink at night, so using a real washing machine was a treat. The support staff set up a bike wash station so we could wash our bikes. Some riders got massages. And some had family members fly in to join them for the day.

The rest days are an opportunity to rest but also to prepare for the next leg. The America By Bicycle staff cleaned the vans and restocked supplies. They also checked on road conditions ahead, and the mechanic worked on bikes that needed repair.  In the evening we loaded our Garmins with the maps that in eight days will get us to Pueblo, Colorado and our next rest day.  Every day the ABB staff mark our progress on a map posted in the hotel lobby.  After the past two 100 mile days we finally feel like we are making progress.  By our next rest day we will be over the Rocky Mountains!

Day 11: A Tough Ride

Wendover, NV to Salt Lake City, UT
Miles: 119  Climb:  1450
Total Miles:  854

Today was the hardest ride I have done on a bike.  Ever.

We ate breakfast at 4:45 a.m. and started riding at 6:15.  This was our earliest start yet.  The support staff knew that the combination of wind and miles would make today a long, hard day, so they scheduled an early start.  After 7 miles we entered I 80 and rode it for the next 100 miles.   We again had several flats, which slowed our progress and increased our frustration.

The first 40 miles we rode through the salt flats.  The ride was surreal.  We were surrounded by mountains, salt flats extended on both sides of the road, and the road ahead was straight and endless.  We had a very strong head wind for 40 miles and rode 9 - 10 mph. I actually begged for semi trucks to stay in the right lane because they broke the wind and even created some pull as they passed us.   Between miles 50 - 60 we had two climbs, and then got socked by the strongest cross winds I've ever experienced.   I rode for miles on the drops to hold the bike on the road.  It was brutal.  The wind gusts were up to 45 miles per hour.  I've never biked in wind like that before. It was tiring, frightening, and frustrating.  Today's ride was a test of both mental and physical strength.

I don't recall ever being as exhausted as I was when I finished the ride today.  But the good  news is that we are now in Utah, we are done riding I 80, and tomorrow is a rest day.  I will do laundry, clean my bike, and maybe do a little sight seeing.

The man who had the serious accident yesterday is in the hospital in Reno and will have surgery on his shoulder tomorrow.  And the man who was struck by the a car in Lovelock is back with us and has been riding in the SAG van.  He had bike parts shipped to Salt Lake City and will be rejoining the ride from here.

Day 10: Ups and Downs

Elko to Wendover, NV
Miles:  108   Climb:  3350
Total Miles:  735

Today was a long, roller coaster type of day.  We rode 108 miles and 100 of it was on Interstate 80.  Several flats today, which slowed us down.  We rode through several construction zones, which also slowed our pace.  One rider had a serious accident and is now in the hospital in Elko with broken ribs and collar bone and horrible road rash.  Needless to say, his accident had a very sobering effect on our ride.

The weather was perfect and the scenery was spectacular.  We had a very long climb at mile 70 to reach Pequoe Summit, followed by an unbelievably long descent.  It was an incredible experience.  We rode three passes today.  The foliage is very different now and the mountains are snow capped.  At one spot a coyote ran along the side of the road with us.  At mile 100 another climb was ahead before we could finish the ride.  The view at the summit was breath taking.  Salt flats stretched as far as we could see and it looked like fields of snow.  Amazing.

I've developed a routine that I follow almost every day when the ride ends.  As soon as I get to the hotel I take off my bike shoes.  The bike shorts are next to go. I immediately fix a recovery drink for rebuilding muscles.  And then I clean my bike, wiping all the road dirt off the chain, components and the frame.  It is very important to keep the bike clean to keep it working properly.  Today, there were bits of asphalt stuck on my beautiful white frame.  It took close to an hour to get it off.  It sure wasn't the way I had planned to celebrate the first century ride of the trip.

We are in West Wendover, which is on the state line between Nevada and Utah.  We are still on the Nevada side.  Tomorrow we leave Nevada and ride 120 miles to get to Salt Lake City.  It will be a windy ride across the salt flats.  I'm hoping for tail wind.

I know the Ann Arbor cycling community is having a ride of silence tomorrow in honor of the people involved in the Kalamazoo tragedy.   I will be riding with you in spirit.